A-Cold-Wall Resort 2022 Menswear Collection

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Samuel Ross said that spending more time out of London, focusing on his family and especially his young daughter, has added a “new spirit,” as well as new colors, to the conception and execution of his work. As per his rhythm of developing his mainlines sculpturally, conceptually, and emotionally before dialing down on the detail to consolidate his focus on functionality—not to mention pricing—this pre-season outing was a pragmatic development of his fall 2021 offer.

Defined overall by minimalist silhouettes, yet textured by injections of color and precise buffets of asymmetry, the collection worked to bring aesthetic technicality back to its functional roots. A semi-tailored tracksuit in yellow and gray layered over a yellow camp collar shirt was cut in sustainably treated synthetics and lined with merino wool, and made for a convincing post-suit professional ensemble. Organically dyed Japanese denim in cobalt blue, perfectly imperfect, was cut into a street silhouette lent versatility by the quality and thought of the fabrication and finish.

That green apart, the color of the collection was the cyclist’s alarm orange—both functional and fine on the eye—deployed in studiously pragmatic gilets, nylon outerwear, and leggings. Shot against a backdrop of 1990s East London financial district development, this collection boosted A Cold Wall’s already convincing stock as a London-based—but Milan-showing—anticipation of menswear developments that are still fully to be realized.

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