Alexis Mabille Haute Couture Spring 2023

Ever the colorist, Alexis Mabille went to town this season, his opulent satin and crêpe canvas forming a rainbow-like explosion on the runway, his message one of happiness, freedom, inclusivity and fun.

He expanded on the flou silhouettes he has been increasingly playing with in the recent past, coupling billows of brightly hued fabric with his signature dramatic corsetry and tailoring.

Still, it was with his simpler, cleverly draped and structured pieces that his signature rang true. Among them, a deep green satin shirt had voluminous pleated sleeves, a V-shaped bustier dress was lent curves by its front draping, and a sleek sheath in mustard crêpe had a triple belt. Lapels were extended to create theatrical hoods, while more daring dresses were open at the sides, showing more than a little skin.

The opening looks in a gold knit fabric shimmered on the runway, including one embroidered with two kissing faces evoking the work of Art Deco artist Erté. Further embellished looks included a red crop top with a modern feel, paired with wide-hipped sarouel pants draped in red crêpe, or a bustier dress with an embroidered bodice, its motifs likened by the designer to the work of Lurçat, its long skirt lifted and attached to the shoulders to form a cape.

These were contrasted with billowing volumes — a parachute kaftan combining crêpe and organza with a satin collar nodding to his love of the tuxedo shape, or a coral-colored organza extravaganza of a bustier gown. With the show staged at auction house Christie’s, there was some fierce bidding going on.

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