Fumito Ganryu Men’s Spring 2023

For his latest men’s collection, Fumito Ganryu reinterpreted has brand’s philosophy of “neutral” by using the related theme of “balance.” He said that while this is the overall concept for the spring season, it can also be seen as a more accessible way of describing his design ethos in general.

“I think maybe different people have different ways of interpreting ‘neutral.’ For me, it’s not about nothingness, but rather it’s when all kinds of existence coming together to create a neutral,” Ganryu said. “I think there may be people who think of neutral as boring, but I don’t interpret it like that.”

The Japanese designer created balance in his offering by combining fashion with functionality, basic colors with vivid hues and punchy prints, and classic tailoring with sports-inspired tech elements. He once again chose to show the collection in look-book format, rather than staging a presentation or runway show.

Ganryu’s take on the classic suit for spring consisted of a softly tailored jacket with a slightly oversize shape, darts at the elbows, a breathable mesh liner and invisible zippers on the pockets. He paired this with trousers cut with similar darts at the knees and a drawstring waist. “I realized that I could create a tailored look through patterning, and therefore make a suit out of any fabric,” he said. In this case, he chose a chambray in a wool and polyester blend.

The designer also turned out sailing jackets made from Solotex fabric made by Japanese textile firm Teijin. Quick drying and lightweight, they are also eye-catching in bold prints inspired by African batiks or Hawaiian flora. Details such as zippers that run the entire length of the hood and pockets that double as arm holes to wear the jackets as ponchos highlight Ganryu’s whimsy and originality.

Pleated-back shirts in Thomas Mason fabrics, drop-crotch jeans in raw denim — which in some cases had been printed over in paint-like white and then left to age with wear — and ribbed knits rounded out the collection. The latter paired neon green or orange with the lightest pastel blue or pink to create the illusion of stripes that curve and distort with the movement of the body.

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