Gabriele Colangelo Pre-Fall 2023
Glitch art and its philosophy of turning digital or analogue errors into artistic effects offered the starting point of Gabriele Colangelo’s creative exploration for pre-fall.
Over a Zoom call, the designer detailed how the artistic movement inspired him to introduce distortion in his lineup via jacquard textiles, the irregular surface of cotton bouclè yarns or leveraging the chiné technique of printing warp before weaving to have faded yet charming visual results.
Still, all these elements and experimentations succumbed under the overall aura of sophistication that define Colangelo’s clean aesthetics and impeccable tailoring. Conversely to his inspiration, there were no flaws in the polished fashions in this collection.
Respecting his signature understated approach to luxury, Colangelo used contrasting stitching to underline silhouettes and subtly elevate suits, roomy Bermuda shorts and checkered miniskirts. Braided tubular details in silk doubled as crafty embellishment punctuating the necklines of dresses or running around the waist of skirts, where metal snap-hooks offered an additional utilitarian ornament. Cue a minimal, spaghetti strap dress and a simple yet beautiful look pairing an asymmetric cerulean top with a citrine yellow paneled skirt.
While few laced incursions veered toward a sensual direction — a black satin pencil skirt dissolving into lace with a dégradé effect was a highlight both for design and craftsmanship — Colangelo also injected a refreshing casual vibe via hybrid outerwear styles. For example, he introduced knitwear on the back of a short peacoat as well as combined a lean tailored coat on the front with a padded back for an even stronger contrast. A quilted taffeta cloak also surprised for its ample volume, which clashed with the elongated silhouettes of the refined lineup.
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