Maison Rabih Kayrouz RTW Spring 2022

Rabih Kayrouz continued to mine the cuts that he has been developing over decades of couture work – his treasures, as he called them during a preview at his Parisian studio. This time, he distilled his couture experience into a wardrobe for whatever comes next, be it an urban escapade abroad or dancing on a starlit beach.

The look: If you wanted to summarize the “attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places” world view of Slim Aarons in clothing terms, this would be it. The pure lines Kayrouz has been favoring lately were well represented, and he also ventured into more opulent volumes, always with the idea of ease.

Quote of note: “I don’t like fashion, I like clothes,” said the designer. “I don’t want to tell different stories every season. It’s the same story I told two years ago and that I’ll be continuing in ten years: a wardrobe for a woman I love.”

Standout pieces: Top of the crop, the denim, a new category that Kayrouz initiated with this collection, including a workwear inspired jacket, long loose pants styled with a mini-skirt over them. For those wanting festival elegance, voluminous ruffled and tiered numbers in neon shades, or the liquid gold of a lamé top and peasant skirt. For adventurous sorts, boxy jackets and tailored shorts, discretely outlined with contrasting thread, or a utilitarian belted jumpsuit. Bringing everyone together: a belted cape coat, available either in sandy cotton gabardine and a dramatic length, or in a shorter crystal studded version.

Takeaway: In his showroom, where a neon sign proclaimed “it’s couture baby,” these silhouettes took on lady-like, urbane accents, but they will easily transpose to any far-flung locale his chic clientele frequents.

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