Mr. Saturday RTW Fall 2023

Mr. Saturday is growing up. The Canadian club kid that joined the calendar in 2021 is still young at three years old, but founder Joey Gollish has found more steady footing by focusing on fewer looks that are true to his creative nature, and adding more tailored pieces.

Each season the Toronto-based Gollish mines the storied nightlife of yesteryear in all its imagined decadence, and this time he looks to the legendary Les Bains Douches heydays in the 1970s and 1980s.

Sharp blazers and vintage-inspired overcoats are key items this season, with just a tinge of retro that steers clear of costume, and he brings in cold-weather Western touches in an oversized fleece trucker suit with contrasting piping. Deadstock shearling is transformed into a fuzzy jacket for some old-school glamour.

His signature bomber cut is truncated but generous in the arm, giving just the right amount of volume without being bulky, completed with a sharp shoulder. Tuxedo pants are meant to serve as more upscale everyday wear, and come in an inclusive size range of 26 – 38.

He also harks back to his own teen years of listening to Joy Division, using posters from the band’s appearance at Les Bains Douche on silk scarves, while also cheekily inserting his own name.

Expanding his accessories, Gollish added two new shapes of handbag in collaboration with outdoor lifestyle brand Roots, and two new boots, one hiking-adjacent and the other subtly cowboy-influenced.

The inclusive size range reveals Gollish’s retail ambitions. Moving forward, he is working to refine the brand by focusing on retailer partners such as Selfridges that can support a more upscale IRL customer, he said. His DTC channel will continue to support wider size ranges but his focus will be on the “luxury narrative.”

He acknowledged some previous collections were under outside influence, advice on what he should create to be commercial, and he suffered a bit from output overload. “I can’t do things that I don’t like to do. I’ve made things that I didn’t love, and they actually don’t do well,” he said.

With just 26 looks, it’s a well-curated collection that benefits from his more streamlined vision.

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