Sean Suen Men’s Spring 2022

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The agony and ecstasy of a fleeting meeting, such as the one depicted in the 1995 romantic drama “Before Sunrise,” starring Ethan Hawke and French actor Julie Delpy, inspired Sean Suen for his spring collection.

Taking the tenets of the classic men’s repertoire, from tank tops and boxer shorts to tailored slacks and trenchcoats, the designer materialized the moment as two sets of clothes enmeshed and wrapping around the body, mimicking two people embracing.

Materials with a soft and sensual hand, like silks and leather, were used to reinforce the impression of intimacy while lightweight layers served to evoke the lightness brought on by summer.

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Among the standouts were his more tailored pieces, including a jacket with sleeves twisting inside out at the shoulders; an overcoat with a trompe-l’oeil lining in the shape of a jacket with a functional collar folded over the coat’s lapel, and a pair of shorts with a wrap-around panel that made it resemble the bottom half of a trenchcoat.

In light of this, Suen restrained the visual imprint of his lineup by cutting back on textures, and only dotting a printed photograph of a flower here or sketches of a silhouette there. It was also a way to reference his own feelings while waiting for so-called normal life to return. “Memories come to me as images, and for the past year, I felt as if I wasn’t forming that many new ones,” he said over WeChat.

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The result felt uncluttered, making Suen’s collection feel like the moment immediately before a reunion — full of potential and memorable in itself.

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