Tokyo James Men’s Spring 2022

Iniye Tokyo James dedicated his spring collection film to “all outcasts out there.”

Titled “Osu,” a term for outcasts among the Igbo people of eastern Nigeria, the collection felt like a step into fashion maturity for the Nigerian British designer. He renounced the moody imagery and storytelling seen in his previous fashion movies to focus on a simple runway video that exalted embroideries, hand-stitched details, geometric patterns, camouflage prints and wrinkled effects.

He indulged these stylistic elements exhaustively, exploring them alone and in combinations, which added up to a more complete and cohesive range compared to the past. As result, his fashion outcasts surely won’t go unnoticed.

Instead of the brand’s signature leather, James crafted bold looks from delicate fabrics such as lace and chiffon in shades of pink, red and lilac, in addition to black and white.

Intricate see-through geometric patterns made for deconstructed suits, breezy coats and Bermuda shorts, appearing also as inserts on shirts and blazers. More exuberant options included tailoring rendered in a black-and-white hand-stitched pattern or enriched with wrinkled motifs.

While some of the multi-embellishments felt forced, James handily blended British sartorial tradition with African soul in this convincing collection.

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