Walter Van Beirendonck Spring 2022 Menswear Collection


One imagines that attending a rave in the company of Walter Van Beirendonck would be a nosebleed good time. When we jumped on a call last month to discuss this collection, the images here were not yet made, however WvB had conjured instead a movie outlining his thesis for the season. “I was reading about how subcultures today don’t have the conditions in which to blossom and grow. I was always very fascinated by subcultures and how they are created—they have so much impact on fashion, and everything. So I thought why not make my own subculture.”

The result of WvB’s hydroponically raised subculture was a fictional band named The Subs, who were preparing for a year 2057 world tour by clobbering up in his costume. As he explained that the fictional group was played by the the real Belgian trance technoists The Sums, he was wearing a great hoodie featuring a smiley and the name of their gorgeous recent tune, “I Want To Dance Again,” whose awesome video features some unmistakeable WvB.

Neon Shadow was imagined by the designer as the leading lights in a futuristic tribe of menswear flamboyants called the Pee Cocks (you don’t get that at Pitti). From lasercut cloaks with integrated gimp masks, to acid, citrus suiting and some fine prints contrasting “gnomes with sex toys,” this was a collection for every occasion that might happen to intersect with 10 hours jacking in front of a bass bin (always the best spot). WvB extended the conceit to produce a fanzine—the true mark of an old-school scene—and have The Subs recorded a ‘Neon Shadow’ tune. As we parlayed WvB mentioned that his collaborators are currently working on setting up a rave at the Sportpaleis in Antwerp for September or October: “Am I going? Yeah, yeah, yeah!”


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