Lou Dalton Spring 2022 Menswear Collection

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These days, Lou Dalton does much of her work with John Smedley, the wonderful heritage Brit-knitwear specialist that she first collaborated with six years ago. Her precise and realistic aesthetic combines finely with the 1784-founded Derbyshire firm’s ethos. Dalton’s expertise, however, does not lie in knitwear: she has a fine eye for menswear design that is especially appreciated in probably the industry’s most refined market, Japan.

These days Dalton is also exercising slow fashion, presenting only one collection a year, and often referring back to her more-than-decade back catalogue in order to remove the imperative of timeliness—this business’s most damaging factor—from her equation. As she said: “It’s about looking back over what performed well, why, and how we can emulate this creatively and sustainably moving forward, whilst bringing something fresh and new to the table.”

This table was laid with several handsome varieties of her suiting made in sustainable wools and check blends sourced from mills in Prato, Italy (where Brexit is giving her problems) and Yorkshire, England. Jackets were cut with action backs for movement and sartorial authenticity, while externalized pockets created an unobtrusively post-modern and avant-garde effect. There were also some of her Smedley knits for seasoning, and some cool recycled nylon and ripstop gear that would look equally as dashing on the Yorkshire moors as on Mount Street. Also fetching were the Uneek sandals by the Canadian brand Keen, which looked like an awesomely geeky fugly-tech-horti-core summer shoe (especially in other colorways): please, guys, just take my money.

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